The Glasshouse Revisited

I do like The Glasshouse.  I was enchanted from the first visit. All that glass is beautiful: from the Milano crystal entrance display to the floor to ceiling windows overlooking the Derwent, and I don’t have to clean any of it.

It wasn’t hard to convince Boozy Friday Lunch Friend and the Gatecrasher that we should make it our most recent lunch destination. They never usually respond so quickly to my emails.

The Glasshouse offers a set lunch menu, Monday to Friday, two courses for $35 or 3 courses for $48. Since all my food choices are premised on the dessert menu, I skipped the set menu because the a la carte featured a burnt elderflower meringue I had designs on. Meringue is one of my favourite food groups.

What we ate:

  • Chicken liver parfait, $12, Tasmanian whisky, local chicken livers, apple and lovage gastrique, Imago pain d’epi
  • Yellowtail Kingfish, $21, carpaccio, lemon oil, Richmond Farm herb emulsion, gentleman’s relish, burnt lemon
  • Molesworth potatoes, $18, local heirloom potatoes, pickled cippolini, curly kale, roast purple garlic aioli
  • Tunnel Hill mushrooms, $18, pan-fried oyster mushrooms, duck egg silken tofu, conscious growers’ herbs, shitake and
  • Rainbow trout, $42, pan-fried north west rainbow trout, brassica leaves, smoked green local olive oil, elder flower capers, Cygnet black garlic.

In our travelling roadshow of chicken liver parfait tasting, The Glasshouse is a strong contender for Hobart fav, with its super-creamy texture and unique sweet caramelised apple sauce contrast.

Trout is an extraordinary fish, reminiscent of salmon but more subtle. With so few opportunities existing to select it from a menu, it was a no brainer.

Who doesn’t like potatoes? The heirloom varieties tick the carbo box and come in different colours so they have an aesthetic and quirky advantage. Gentleman’s relish is something I usually avoid, not being a gentleman, it lacks relevance. After making a Feminist resistance statement and vowing to go with the sashimi instead, the name of my favourite fish slipped from my lips and that’s what arrived. It was delicious. Kingfish is high on the list of great fish for its sweet and firm flesh and the relish lifted the dish delivering a robust but not overpowering dimension to the meal.

The surprise plate was the mushrooms which was actually tofu – menu comprehension fail. I’ve witnessed Boozy consume a 500 gram T-bone, the man loves his meat, but he seemed to cope with the Asian-inspired silken tofu and fancy mushrooms. It was a delicate and flavoursome dish.

Ironically, there was no room at the inn for dessert after this meal. Five plates are considered a modest lunch selection for three people and seven plates are the dinner benchmark. The trout was one of their larger plates and our choices equated easily to the equivalent of entrée and main for us all.

The Glasshouse has a strong focus on local produce sourcing products from relatively new and noteworthy, Imago bakery, and the Mt Rumney railway tunnel mushroom growers for example.

Plating up is a strong point with beautifully prepared presentations.

The Glasshouse is a great option for anything from a snack to a large dinner with a shared-plate approach in a stylish environ. This Girl has only had good eating experiences at what is now a Hobart icon. Definitely worth keeping it on your list of must-do eating out locations.

Notes:

  • Gastrique – a sauce of caramelised sugar deglazed with vinegar.
  • Pain d’Epi  – a baguette prepared so it looks like a wheat stalk.
  • Cippolini – a small flat onion.
  • Lovage – a herb, a bit like parsley.
  • Gentleman’s relish – the defining characteristic is anchovies ie it’s basically anchovy paste, but modern versions are more tomato focused with a heavy handed addition.

In our recent Travel Tips series we included the set lunch menu at the Glasshouse – Tourist Tips #1-5.

We really like the chicken liver parfait at Peacock and Jones and Ettie’s too!

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